Pocket Baiste – The First Fitting….
We have now moved on to the first fitting: the pocket baiste, and as this is an untested pattern, I must say I am very pleased with the results so far. The first fitting is for me to get the balance and girth of the jacket correct and then anchor the coat to the clients neck. This is achieved by the depth of the arm holes being just right. I like to cut my arm holes high and wide as all my sleeve’s are sewn in by hand which allows my coat maker’s to place fullness into the sleeve where needed. All the adjustments will be reflected in his paper pattern which I will update accordingly. I cut the pattern the same way as I was painstakingly taught at Anderson & Sheppard. Simon wanted a slightly shorter jacket to show more leg, and with the slimmer trousers, it will make him appear taller and slimmer, with a lot of shape through the waist; and this is what we are beginning to achieve. His previous suits which he bought off the peg have been far too baggy through the fronts, and with out the shape he would have wished for, which was not a great look for him. Simon’s girlfriend actually remarked that this was already the best fitting suit he has ever had! After he left I ripped and smoothed the coat flat. I removed the collar, shoulder and sleeves so I could lay the paper pattern on it once again. The photographs below show the hand padded floating canvas and the smaller shoulder pads which start to make up the soft tailoring style that I champion. The next fitting will be in about 3 weeks, so watch this space.