Soft Tailoring Style – The Hitchcock Way
The art of my soft tailoring style has stood the test of time and is a style reminiscent of the golden age of men’s clothing. My soft tailored hand crafted suit will be lighter in weight to wear, much more comfortable and individually stylish. In order to achieve this unique style there are a number of very different elements in the making.
When I create my soft canvas, unlike the standard tailoring process, I like to have as little hair cloth (stiffener across the chest) as possible. By not using a big piece or even multiple numbers of hair cloths, much more skilled craftsmanship is needed to create the shape in the chest, but the result is so worthwhile as it results in lightness and extra comfort in the jacket. My canvas is hand padded with long loose stitches and not machine stitched as is common with many other tailors houses.
I do not use ready made shoulder pads, depending on the clients shoulder angles, I hand make a pad from the smallest amount of wadding,1/8 – 5/8 inch wide. I can make a straight or as I prefer a natural round shoulder line as the wadding is far softer, as seen in the photo above, but always very soft and lightweight for ease of movement. I do not like to see the shoulder seam from the front view, as it will break up the line of the shoulders so with a slightly smaller back neck, and sloping the front and back shoulders helping to creating a longer line, which then enables me to sew in more fullness bringing the shoulder end forward and making the shoulder ends loose which I believe to be much more comfortable. The wider shoulder and front and back drape make the illusion of a smaller waist.
Arm Hole and Sleeves
All are sewn in by hand and once again this allows more fullness to be sewn into the sleeves than a sleeve that has been machine stitched. This in turn is hand sewn into a high and comfortable arm hole. Great care is taken to get the right runs and shapes to match between sleeve and arm hole for perfection, thereby creating a stylish drape at front and back for comfort and style. My high arm hole ensures that the collar stays anchored to the neck. This ensures that there is no unsightly gap between collar and neck.